Ancient Sumeria to Pre-Columbian America: The Sparkling History of Jewelry

The history of a mineral, crystal or metal canand beads. Some of these techniques show up in
unlock a deeper, more meaningful value toEtruscan art. In Rome, the use of gold grew
jewelry. Indeed, the anthropology, archaeology,beyond jewelry and expanded into household
geography, and technology of special gems anditems and furniture in the homes of the higher
elements can provide rich stories.classes.
CopperThe news of the discovery of gold during the
Take for example copper, and its oxides, which19th century in the American West could result in
are the most ancient minerals used. They beganthousands of settlers who would risk life and limb
showing up in the ancient jewelry of Sumeria,for a chance of finding gold. The most famous
Pre-Columbian America, and Egypt around 4,000gold rush occurred in California at Sutter's Mill in
B.C., and also played a vital role in the wars fought1848.
in those volatile regions.Silver
In addition to copper, Egyptians were also amongSilver has been found in modern-day burial
the first to develop bronze, a mixture of tin andexcavations of the ancient Sumerian city of Ur.
copper. As early as 3,900 B.C., Egyptians wereWhat is now modern-day Turkey was once a
developing copper products which eventually weremajor source of mined silver. The Chaldeans were
used in common household items such as cookingthe first culture to extract silver form other ores
pots. By 2,500 B.C., Egyptian jewelry makers hadaround 2,500 B.C.
developed copper to a level that it was beingHistorically, the cultures of South and North
used to create crows and headdresses.America, Greece, China, Rome and Mexico
Copper use in Pre-Columbian America maydeveloped superior silversmithing techniques and
predate its use in the Middle East. In somemade wide use of silver, not only in jewelry but
cultures, metal working was so advanced it rivaledalso in household items.
those of the European invaders. Pre-ColumbianIn the New World, Spanish conquests revealed
Americans used copper for bells, ornaments,that the skills of silversmiths were comparable to
weapons, jewelry, and armor.Spain in level of technique and artistry. Exploitation
Goldof this silver by Europeans in Bolivia, Peru and
The history of gold is long and complex, topplingMexico eventually produced nearly 85 percent of
some cultures and giving rise to others. It hasthe world's silver between 1500 and 1800.
been and continues to be a symbol of wealth andIn the 19th century, silver jewelry became more
power. Not surprisingly, the use of gold in Africanaffordable thanks to advances in technology.
cultures has been extensive. Most often, tribesTiffany and Company began producing silverware
used gold to create objects for the court of thein New York, while Nevada enjoyed the boom
local chiefs. Workshops exclusively dedicated todays of the Comstock Lode in Virginia City, during
the production of these treasures were extensivewhich the mine produced millions of dollars worth
and elaborate.of silver.
In the Middle East, the discovery of EgyptianSilver was the metal of choice in the 20th
jewelry found in the tomb of Queen Zer andcentury for craftsmen of the Arts and Crafts
Queen Pu-abi of Ur in Sumeria are not only themovement, who rebelled against the mass
oldest pieces of gold jewelry in existence, but alsoproduced jewelry that dominated the time. They
the oldest examples found in any kind of jewelry.combined silver with uncut stones and cabochons.
Sadly, over the centuries thieves raided most ofJewelers from this time were mostly untrained
the Egyptian tombs. Thankfully, however, thenovices and so the quality of most of the pieces
tomb of Tutankhamen remained undisturbed untilfrom this movement is low. The best jewelry
its discovery in the 20th century. It was thefrom the Arts and Crafts movement was
largest collection of gold and jewelry in the worldproduced by C.R. Ashbee, Henry Wilson, Harold
and represents the highest mark of skill in artStabler, and Liberty & Co., to name a few.
achieved in human history.One of the best known Art Nouveau jewelry
The Minoan culture grew rich as a trading culturedesigners was Louis Comfort Tiffany. In 1964,
along the Mediterranean trade routes and as athe U.S. government stopped issuing silver
result, its jewelry making flourished. The Minoanscertificates, which up until then had supported the
are known for their stamped gold sheeting andpaper currency.
filigree and granulated gold jewelry, burial masks,