Mombasa & the Kenyan Coast- Where the Sun is Ever Faithful

Kenya’s 480 km coast is one of theMsambweni and Shimoni. These are the beaches
principal attractions for visitors to the country.to the south of Mombasa, where hotel and resort
Every year, hundreds of thousands of sun loversdevelopment has taken place. To get to the
find their way here. Many are returning pilgrimssouth coast beaches you need to take the ferry
who truly know that the sun here is ever faithful.at Likoni, the southern tip of Mombasa Island. If
Unlike other beach destinations, the visitor isthis does not suit you, take a flight to Diani
served with much more than just sun and sandairstrip. Diani beach, 40 km from Mombasa is the
but is delighted to discover ancient coastal forestsmost developed beach at the south coast. This is
and historical sites and a people with a fascinatingthe quintessential tropical paradise and here you
history and culture. The casual visitor impressedwill find a wide range of hotels, including an 18-hole
by the tranquil beaches and gentle people will notgolf resort. Though some of the other beaches
suspect the colourful and eventful history ofare excellent, they have limited range of
these realms.For the tourist, the Kenyan coastaccommodation and attract fewer people.Shimoni,
can be seen as five regions. These are: the town100 km from Mombasa is a centre for serious
and island of Mombasa; the south coastdeep-sea fishing. It is also from Shimoni that you
–stretching from Mombasa to thecan visit the Kisite-Mpunguti Marine National Park.
Tanzanian border 135 km away: the north coast-Here you will see the treasures of
covering the beaches from Mombasa up to Kilifi,Kenya’s underwater world. At the marine
60 km away: Malindi and Watamu about 130 kmpark, the snorkeling experience is outstanding and
to the northeast of Mombasa and Lamu island andon a lucky day you will swim with the dolphins. At
archipelago, 225 km further up from Malindi. EachShimoni, there are a series of deep coastal caves
of these regions has similarities in terms ofstretching from the sea to deep inland. Arab
history, culture, natural attractions and beachslavers reportedly used these caves in the dark
experience. But as sports fans will understand, it isdays of the slave trade. The slaves who perished
the differences that matter to the dedicated fanshere are remembered in Roger
of each region.The gateway to the Kenyan coastWhittaker’s song
is Mombasa. You get here by flying into its“Shimoni”.At the south coast you
international airport or by taking the 520 km roadhave plenty of chances to indulge in some thrilling
journey from Nairobi, the common entry port formarine activity such as water skiing, wind surfing,
most visitors. If you demand the freedom ofscuba diving, goggling and deep-sea fishing. The
your own car, consider taking a rental car either inShimba Hills National Reserve, directly inland from
Nairobi on in Mombasa to help you get around.Diani is a surprise and you have the opportunity
Review the options you have for Kenya Carto see some of the wildlife that Kenya is famed
Rental and Kenya Domestic Flights as you plan tofor. Though the wildlife is not as prolific as in the
get there.Mombasa, the principal city atupcountry game parks, the beautiful rainforest
Kenya’s coast is one of the oldest humanand the spectacular Sheldrick Falls make it worth
settlements on the eastern seaboard of thea visit. You can also spend the night here at
African continent. Though it has without doubtKenya’s only tree lodge at the coast,
been in existence for at least 700 years, it iswhich has some water holes where elephants and
mentioned in writings of Arab, Roman andother animals come for a drink.The main
Egyptian travelers dated as far back as 2,500attraction of the north coast is its beaches.
years ago. The Arabs came to trade and settle,Heading north from Mombasa these are: Nyali,
starting from about the 8th century AD. With theBamburi, Shanzu, Vipingo and Kikambala. Here you
push of the northeast monsoon, their dhowswill find hotel and resort complexes to suit the
brought ironware, glassware, textiles, and tooktaste of most beach holiday enthusiasts. From
home rhino horn, ivory and slaves. Substantialyour north coast base, you may want to visit
settlements gradually developed and manyMamba Village, reputed to be one of the
traders settled and intermarried with localworlds’ largest crocodile farms. Those
Africans. The Arabs also brought along theinterested in eco conservation projects must not
message of the Prophet and the Kenyan coast ismiss Haller Park. The park is named after the
even today predominantly Muslim.RelativeSwiss agronomist who by sheer grit and vision
tranquility prevailed at the coastal towns until thetransformed a huge abandoned cement quarry
Portuguese showed up at the end of the 15thinto a spectacular 7 sq km nature and animal
century. The Portuguese were a substantialsanctuary.At Mtwapa, just beyond Shanzu beach,
seafaring power of the day and were anxious toKenya Marineland houses some very diverse
break the stranglehold of the Ottoman Empire onmarine life, which you view from a glass-sided
Indian Ocean trade. Vasco Da Gama opened theunderground tunnel. From the same point, you can
way for his compatriots when he made his waytake a dhow sailing trip that includes onboard
round the southern tip of Africa and up toentertainment - acrobatics, fire eating and local
eastern Africa in 1498. The Portuguese were notdancers. Just off the coast, spectacular coral
warmly received in Mombasa, but not so atreefs teem with numerous fish, sea turtles and
Malindi. The local sultan offered his ready friendshipdolphins. You have an opportunity for world-class
and proved very useful to Da Gama by providingdiving here, including some serious wreck diving.
a pilot who knew how to get to India, his ultimateDiving at the Kenyan coast is good year round,
destination.Between the 15th and 19th centuries,expect in the months of July and August when
Mombasa saw plenty of war. For this reason, thesilting and high seas are a problem.Malindi has a
city was nicknamed Mvita, which in Swahilihistory going back at least 800 years. This is the
translates as Isle of War. Fort Jesus, theonly town along the east African coast where the
permanent garrison whose construction wasPortuguese found friendship without the
started by the Portuguese in 1593, changedpersuasion of arms. Vasco Da Gama erected a
masters 9 times before 1875. By the terror ofpillar to serve as a navigation aid that still stands.
war, the Portuguese sought to control the eastToday, the town is a particular favourite with
African coast. As colonial overlords, theItalian visitors. Most of the hotel and resort
Portuguese were deficient in that they weredevelopment are to the south of the town along
mostly interested in plunder and trade and did notthe Silversands beachfront and nearer town
establish robust systems of administration.around Malindi Bay. At Malindi Marine National Park,
Another related difficulty they faced was thatyou can see some fascinating coral gardens by
they were supplied from Goa in India. The studentdiving, snorkeling or from a glass bottomed
of military theory will recognise this as a classicalboat.Malindi is a respected centre for big game
case of “long supply lines”.Thefishing and several world records have been set
Portuguese were finally driven out by thehere. The writer Hemingway was here in the
emerging power of Omani Arabs in 1729. The1930’s to enjoy one of his favourite
ascendancy of the Omani Arabs lasted untilmacho sports. Watamu, 15 km further south, is a
Britain, a leading super power at the time,small beach development around the beautiful
appeared at the beginning of the 19th century.inlets of Turtle Bay and Blue Lagoon. Watamu too
The British came in under the guise of ahas its own Marine Park. At the edge of the park,
humanitarian mission- the suppression of the slaveyou find a collection of caves housing a school of
trade. The Omani Arabs were notorious slavegiant rock cod, some stretching the whole of 2
traders. Christian missionaries put pressure on themetres. Consider making an excursion to Gedi
British government to persuade the Omani ArabsRuins, one of Kenya archeological treasures. Gedi
to pursue other trade other than trafficking inis estimated to have been founded in the 13th
humans. This is somewhat like the problem thecentury but was mysteriously abandoned in the
Americans face today in South America with17th century. Experts guess that marauding Galla
respect to the cocaine trade.The British weretribesmen from up north did in the
actually successful in this, by using time honouredsettlement.Lamu has in recent years found favour
carrot and stick tactics. Under the resulting deal,with the international glitterati. The town has an
the Omani Arabs whose headquarters was inambience of mediaeval romance that attracts
Zanzibar were recognized as overlords over a 16those who are offended by the burdens of our
km strip along the Kenyan coast. The sultan wasmodern existence. Life in the island goes on
to be paid an annuity as compensation foralmost like it did in the 14th century when the
resulting loss of revenue. This territory acquiredsettlement was founded. Lamu has narrow
the status of a British Protectorate until 1963streets and the town has only a single car for use
when the Sultan of Zanzibar ceded it to theby the top government official. Everybody else
newly independent Kenyan nation.Mombasa iswalks, takes a dhow or uses donkey taxis. If you
today a cosmopolitan metropolis reflecting thecome in by air you land at nearby Manda Island,
influence of Africans, Persians, Arabs, Turks,from where you take a dhow or ferry. In this
Indians, Portuguese and the British. The Old Towncentre of Islamic culture, the men wear full-length
is a grid of narrow winding streets lined withwhites and the women are shorn head to toe in
houses built to coastal Swahili and Indian styles.black.Shela is the main beach on the island and is
Some of the houses have intricately carved doorsjust 15 minutes away by motorboat. You will find
similar to what you find in Zanzibar and Lamu. Ingood rated accommodation at Lamu. There are
the Old Town you will find Fort Jesus, thealso some very pricey hideaways in the
permanent garrison built by the haplessneighboring islands of the archipelago favoured by
Portuguese. Fort Jesus, in addition to being anthe jet set. In the centre of the town, you find a
attraction itself, houses a museum exhibitingfort built by invading Omani Arabs in the early
various artifacts reflecting the various cultures19th century that now serves as a cultural centre.
that have influenced the Kenyan coast. You willLamu museum is located at the seafront, in a
also see articles recovered from the ill-fatedhouse once occupied by Jack Haggard, Queen
Portuguese warship Santo Antonio De Tanna,Victoria’s consul in this then important
which sank in the siege of 1697 that lasted 1000outpost. The museum is a repository of Swahili
days.In Mombasa you can take an all day dhowculture and on display are artifacts, dhows,
trip and relive the experience of the traders whojewelry and crafts.At Mombasa and the Kenyan
sailed along the East African coast and as far asCoast you will find rated accommodation. Once
India and the Persian Gulf aboard these vesselsyou are there, you can take a break to view
for centuries. For the past few years, everysome of the wildlife that the country is famed
November the Mombasa Carnival has been stagedfor. From Mombasa, the nearest park reachable
in the town. The Carnival is a lively street paradeby road is Tsavo East, 4 hours away. Another
where you see incredibly adorned musicians andgood option is to fly to the Maasai Mara,
other artists from the Kenyan coast and otherKenya’s top wildlife sanctuary and home
parts of the country. Street comedians, Swahilito the big five- elephant, lion, leopard, rhino and
Taarab singers, Maasai warriors, brass bands andbuffalo. There are many Kenya safari options with
individual artists in outrageous costumes brave theMombasa departuresThe Kenyan coast has a
November heat to march in the parade.Visitors totropical climate and it is a hot and humid place.
the south coast usually head to Shelley, Tiwi, Diani,