Gubbio - A Town Rich in History and Artisan Tradition

Let's face it, when people say they've been towith goose, homemade tortellini, etc. My mouth
Italy they've been to Rome, Venice and usuallyjust waters at the thought! Another excellent
Florence. While they are all beautiful cities andrestaurant is the Taverna del Lupo. This
each one quite unique, they are overcrowded andrestaurant has been written up in many travel
usually not very relaxing to visit. You might feelarticles and merits a mention here. For those
you need a vacation from your vacation!interested in learning how to prepare delicious
Visiting Umbria, the green heart of Italy, is sittingItalian food, they also offer cooking classes. If
back and enjoying the Italian lifestyle, its history,pizza is more to your tastes, the Arcobaleno
food and tradition. Located in the center of theoffers pizza cooked in a wood burning oven. Take
country Umbria is the only region not located onnote though, pizza is served only in the evenings
any sea coast. There are mountains in thebecause of the oven.
northern area and rolling green hills the fartherWalking around town is the best way to get to
south you go. In many ways, it reminds one a bitknow the town and immerse yourself in the local
of Tuscany, but far less commercial. Umbria istraditions. There are many small shops where the
filled with charming hill towns and is often referredlocal artisans sell their creations. There is a long
to as the land of St. Francis of Assisi.history of ceramics, woodworking, embroidery,
One of the most beautiful little hill town to visit ishandmade gold jewelry, wrought iron works and
Gubbio, a town steeped in tradition but with anleather bound books and journals here. All these
eye towards the future. Located in thecan be seen at the Exhibition Center of Traditional
northeastern part of the region, it was once anArt and Trade of the Artisan in downtown
important Roman outpost. The Roman Theatre,Gubbio. This initiative is sponsored by the local
built in the 1st century b.c. and located justgovernment and local artisan associations to
outside the ancient walls, is still used for theatreshowcase and promote local products. It is
performances during the summer months. Afterrefreshing to see the many varied products under
the fall of the Roman Empire, Gubbio wasone roof.
destroyed by barbarian invasions. The citizensCeramic production has been a major staple in
took refuge on the slopes of Monte Igino thusthe life of Gubbio. Production has been
building a town and fortress with which to protectdocumented since the 12th century and greatly
themselves. The medieval down town area hasdeveloped during the 15th and 16th centuries.
retained its original flavor at every corner. ChurchMany of the patterns and colors are taken from
bells still toll on the hour, the market place sellsthis era but the more innovative artisans
vegetables and flowers, and everyone greets oneincorporate modern motifs into age old designs,
another as they go about their business.thus giving plates and vases a more modern
The impressive Palazzo di Consoli, built in the 14thtwist. Some of the more popular pieces come
century, stands out with its pink limestone andfrom the family run factories of Mastro Giorgio,
suspended piazza (the largest suspended piazza inRampini, Aldo Fumanti and C.A.F.F. (all of which
Europe) and overlooks all the other buildings inexport into the United States and other countries
town. This was once the government building andabroad).
it now houses the Pinacoteca and ArcheologicalThere are other products that must be seen to
Museum. In an area that is prone to seismicbe appreciated. Medio Evo, with its swords,
activity, it looks strong enough to stand forarmors and other medieval weaponry, is sure to
another 1000 years. While walking around town,please everyone of all ages. If you are in the
you come across enclosed gardens and alleysmarket for a suit of armor to wear at your next
that are perfect picture postcards! San Martino isjoust, you are sure to find one there.
the oldest neighborhood of the medieval town andHow can one forget the gentle art of
dates back to the 10th and 11th centuries. Walkingembroidery? This is not the Chinese, mass
through this residential area is almost like walkingproduced type, this is the real "Made in Italy!"
into the past. There are few cars and the streetsTransparent organza to set the table with, silken
are alive with the smells of cooking and thesheets with such lovely embroidery that you'll feel
voices of those who live there.like royalty are only a few of the items offered.
The food is a delight and available in all priceThe local people are such a pleasure as well.
ranges. Look for the traditional Umbrian fare ofFriendliness seems to be a major pastime. Can't
squab, brustengo (a type of bread made withspeak the language? That's not a problem...many
flour, water and salt and fried in olive oil thenspeak English or know someone who does.
served with prosciutto), truffles on pasta, fricco'There's so much to see in and around Gubbio.
(a stew like creation of pieces of chicken, lamb,This is only the tip of the iceberg! One really
pork with a rosemary/white wine or tomatoneeds to spend a few days in the city to take in
sauce served with crescia (an unleavened flatall of its delights. There are hotels, inns and B
bread). Just outside of Gubbio is a small restaurant& B's in all price ranges. The Hotel dei
called the Vecchia Locanda. They prideCappuccini is top of the line (5 star quality) as is
themselves on keeping the tradition of cookingthe Relais Ducale and the Bosone.
local fare such as fricco', homemade fettuccine