La Corrida - Bullfights in the Yucatan Mexico

When the Spanish arrived in the Yucatan theyexchanges his cape and wooden sword for a
brought many of their traditions. One of thesesmaller red muleta and a steel sword, the espalda.
was the bullfight, or La Corrida, which hasThe Torero thrusts the espalda between the bull's
remained popular to this day. There are threeshoulder blades and into its heart for a quick
major bullrings or plazas de toros in the Yucatan,death.
one located in Cancun, one in Merida and theDuring a bullfight, you will hear the crowd cheer
other in Motul, with additional temporary arenas inand applaud valiant or well-executed maneuvers
smaller towns on any given weekend.by man or bull. You may also hear boos, taunts
La Corrida evolved from the rituals of ancientand whistling when the crowd is not pleased. At
animal sacrifice featuring bulls, a symbol of virility.the end of a fight, some might wave white rags
The earliest accounts can be found in the writingssignifying that the Torero should be awarded one
of Plato in his tale of Atlantis. In Spain, theseor two of the bull's ears, and perhaps even a tail.
rituals developed into a training regimen forThe bull, too, may be awarded, either with a
medieval combat. A public display of bullfightingdignified procession of its body from the ring
was usually associated with a saint's feast day, or(arrastre lento) or by a pardon (indulti). On most
fiesta, when an entire town expected to beoccasions, however, the bull is killed and its body
entertained and fed. The local rancher oris taken from the ring, quickly skinned, quartered
ganadero provided bulls, the aristocratic cavaliersand sent to market as beef.
demonstrated the art of combat, and the localLa Corrida is not for everybody. We neither
villagers lent their cheer and appetites.endorse nor condemn this tradition, as it is simply
Today, La Corrida is usually held on a Sundaya distinct part of our Spanish heritage. But before
afternoon. Three bullfighters or Toreros, oryou attend your first bullfight, you should ask
Matadores, fight two bulls each for a total of sixyourself if you would travel in a time machine to
bulls. Each bullfight is divided into three acts calledwitness similar spectacles, such as a medieval
terceros.jousting contest in England or a ritual Mayan
In the first tercero, the bull is released into thesacrifice at Chichen Itza.
ring where the Peones or assistants, under theBullfighting season is generally during the winter
direction of the Torero, use their capes to testmonths, from approximately November through
the bull's behavior. The Torero then calls for theMarch or April. For the best experience, try to
Picadores, two men with lances on armoredattend a bullfight with a well-known matador.
horses who weaken the bull by piercing its backMatadors from Spain, Mexico City and all over the
between the shoulder blades. This is done toworld will occasionally perform even in small
make the bull safer to approach and to allow forvenues like Merida. Advertisements can be found
a quicker kill in the final tercero.on posters around town, usually on corners in the
In the second tercero, the Torero calls for thehistorical center of Merida. And tickets are sold
Banderillos. These three men approach on foot,either at the bullring itself, or in some of the
often imitating the behavior of bulls. Each Banderillorestaurants or hotels closest to the Plaza Grande
decorates the bull with two hook-tipped spearsin the center of town.
wrapped in brightly colored ribbons.You will pay between $15 and $50 dollars U.S. for
During the final tercero, the Torero uses histickets to attend La Corrida in Merida or Motul,
yellow and pink cape and a wooden sword toand slightly more in Cancun. If you want less
work closely with the bull in a series of moves likeexpensive tickets, specify sol seating, which
a dance. You will hear the crowd shout "ole!" whenmeans on the sunny side of the arena, but be
the bull passes particularly close to the Torero.sure to bring a hat. The sombra seats, which are
This is the most elegant and refined part of thein the shade, are more expensive. It is customary
bullfight and is the subject of much art, song andto bring a cushion, a bota bag of red wine and a
literature, such as Hemingway's Death in thewhite rag. It is also a good idea to bring bottled
Afternoon.water. Beer and other refreshments are sold at
When the Torero senses that the bull is tired, hethese events as well.