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Article #42: Tuscany - Gods gift to man

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Tuscany - Gods gift to man Piazza del Campo, Siena's main square,
11th January 2007 that takes place every July 2 and August
Author: Tonysena 16. The contrade (traditional
Brief Introduction & History neighborhoods) compete for the palio, or
Tuscany is one of twenty regions in banner, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The
Italy. The region is located in the square is filled with costumed pageantry
central, western part of the country, before the race, and massive feasts are
north of Rome and south of Genoa. It is set up on long outdoor tables that can
bounded by the Apennine Mountains to the stretch for blocks on the medieval side
North and East, the Apuan Alps on the streets.
northwest and by the Tyrrhenian Sea on - Pistoia Blues Festival, Giostra
the West. Its land area is about 9,000 dell'Orso - Pistoia
square miles (23.300 square kilometers). Two important events take place in
Its major cities are Florence, Pisa, Pistoia every July: the Pistoia Blues
Siena, Lucca, Arezzo, and Pistoia. Its Festival and the Giostra dell'Orso.
major river is the Arno, which begins in Taking place in the first half of July,
the Apennines, and on which Florence and the Pistoa Blues draws international
Pisa are located. blues artists who perform in the city's
FROM THE BEGINNING... main square.
Tuscany was the home land of the After a magnificent procession held on
Etruscans, which was annexed by Rome in the 25th of July to honor St. James, the
351 BC. After the fall of the Roman patron saint of the city, twelve knights
empire, the region, which became known as take part in the Giostra dell'Orso, a
Tuscany (Toscana in Italian) came under medieval jousting tournament. The
the rule of a succession of rulers knights' goal is to hit two stylized
(Herulians, Ostrogoths, etc.) and emerged bears with their lances to the sound of
as a political entity with its own drum rolls and fanfares. The bear (orso)
rulers. By the twelfth century, the is the heraldic animal of Pistoia and the
Tuscan cities were gradually gaining Giostra is the highlight of the towns's
their independence as republics and "Luglio Pistoiese" festival.
forcing the nobility to live in the - Bravio delle Botti - Montepulciano
cities. By the high Middle Ages, the The Bravio delle Botti, which takes place
cities of Pisa, Siena, Arezzo, Pistoia, on the last Sunday in August, is a barrel
Lucca, and especially Florence had become rolling race between the eight Contradas
wealthy because of textile manufacture, (divisions) of Montepulciano competing
trade, banking, and agriculture. There for a Palio, a painted cloth banner. The
were many wars between the city states to barrels (which weigh 80 kilos) have to be
conquer territory and power. Gradually, rolled up about 1800 meters along the
Florence came to overshadow and conquer main street of the town of Montepulciano
all other cities in the region. to end in the Piazza Grande. Costume
THE RENAISSANCE AND REIGN OF THE MEDICI processions precede the competition and a
After several experiments with street banquet follows.
representative government, Florence was - Giostra del Saracino - Arezzo
ruled by an oligarchy of wealthy Good old-fashioned medieval jousting in
aristocrats, among whom the Medici family Arezzo on the first Sunday in September.
became dominant in the fifteenth century. This is the second tournament of the
Under the patronage of these wealthy year, the first one already held in June.
families, the arts and literature See above for more details.
flourished as nowhere else in Europe and - Palio della Balestra - Sansepolcro
thus this period is known as the On the last Sunday in May, the
Renaissance, the rebirth after the Middle crossbowmen of Sansepolcro travel to
Ages. Florence was the city of such Gubbio (Umbria) for the Palio della
writers as Dante, Petrarch, and Balestra, a crossbow contest between the
Macchiavelli, and artists and engineers men of of Gubbio and Sansepolcro who
such as Botticelli, Brunelleschi (who dress in medieval costume and use antique
built the magnificent dome on the church weapons. On the second Sunday in
of St. Mary of the Flowers, Santa Maria September, the crossbowmen of Gubbio
dei Fiori), Alberti, Leonardo Da Vinci, visit Sansepolcro for a rematch.
and Michelangelo. Because of its - Display of the Virgin's Girdle -
dominance in literature, the Florentine Prato
language became the literary language of Prato keeps the Virgin Mary's girdle
the Italian region and is the language of under heavy lock and key year-round in
Italy today. Lorenzo de' Medici, who the Duomo, but takes it out five times a
ruled Florence in the late fifteenth year amid much religious pomp and some
century was perhaps the greatest patron medieval drum rolling to show it to the
of the arts in the history of the West. crowds massed on the piazza. Two of these
DECLINE AND RENEWAL occassions include September 8
Times changed and upon the death of (celebration of the nativity of the
Lorenzo, the Medici power seems to fall Virgin Mary) and December 25 and 26. The
apart. The Dominican friar Girolamo rest of the time, Prato's most revered
Savonarola ruled Florence when the Medici relic is housed in the beautiful "Pulpit
were exiled. After Savonarola turned of the Sacred Girdle" off the facade's
against the pope, he was excommunicated right corner. The story of how the girdle
and in 1498, tortured and burned in arrived in Prato is detailed in the
Piazza della Signoria. With the shift of chapel immediately to the left of the
commerce away from the Mediterranean and entrance in Agnolo Gaddi's fresco cycle
toward the Atlantic taking place after of "The Legend of the Holy Girdle
1492, the economy of Tuscany went into a (1392-95)".
slow decline. By 1530, the Holy Roman - Carnavale - Viareggio
Emperor Charles V conquered Florence and During the period before Ash Wednesday,
re-established the Medici family in many towns stage carnivals and enjoy
power. They were now dukes of Florence, their last opportunity to indulge before
and within a few decades, Cosimo de' Lent. The popular carnival celebrations
Medici was made Grand Duke of Tuscany. held at Viareggio are among the best
Cosimo aggressively pursued a policy of known in all of Italy, with masked
economic revival, building the great pageants, fireworks, a flower show and
harbor at Livorno because the harbor of parades along the Tuscan Riviera.
Pisa had silted up, founding Carnevale in San Gimignano and Florence
universities, sponsoring the work of are much smaller, with locals dressed up
another famous Tuscan, Galileo Galilei, in colorful costumes marching through the
promoting the exploratory voyages of streets. The biggest celebration is, of
Amerigo Vespucci. Their successors began course, held in Venice.
the decline of the Medici; in 1737, the - Easter, Scoppio del Carro - Florence
last male member of the dynasty, Gian The big event in Florence for Easter is
Gastone, died without an heir. the Scoppio del Carro, or the "explosion
Fortunately for the future of Florence, of the cart", an event which dates back
his sister Anna Maria Luisa bequeathed 300 years. Today, an elaborate wagon
the entire Medici estate and art built in 1622 and standing two to three
treasures to the city so that they could stories high is dragged through Florence
be forever enjoyed by Florentines and the behind a fleet of white oxen decorated in
world. garlands to the square between the
MODERN TIMES Baptistry and Cathedral. The cart has
After the Medici, Tuscany was ruled by been properly rigged with a suitable
the Austrian Dukes of Lorraine. In the arsenal of fireworks so that when a
seventeenth century, Florence and Tuscany dove-shaped rocket (symbolising the Holy
had increasingly faded into relative Spirit) slides down a steel cable at full
obscurity and did not revive until the speed from the Cathedral altar, it will
nineteenth century. The Dukes of Lorraine set off a ferocious dance of fire on
modernized the local administration, impact. A big bang ensures a good
reorganized religious houses and enacted harvest, and a parade in medieval costume
agricultural improvements, most notably follows. The Explosion of the Cart takes
the draining of the areas of the Maremma place around 11 a.m. so watch out for the
and Valdichiana. The march toward Italian cart on the streets of Florence an hour
independence, however, led to the end of beforehand.
the Lorraine rule in 1861 when Tuscany - Maggio Musicale Fiorentino - Florence
voted in favour of annexation to a united From late April through June, the
Italy. Florence was capital of the Florence Maggio Musicale, May Music
kingdom of Italy from 1865 to 1871. Festival, is a series of internationally
Today, Tuscany is a major cultural acclaimed classical music concerts and
center, with museums, galleries and recitals, opera and ballet in venues
churches full of great sculptures, across the city. Tickets can be hard to
paintings and frescoes and magnificent come by, so check the online schedule and
monuments built by the greatest masters purchase tickets in advance.
of all time. Tuscany attracts millions of Top Museums to visit across Tuscany
tourists each year. If you are interested Tuscany houses many musuems with
in visiting Tuscany, we hope our guide masterpieces by the greatest artists of
will be useful in planning your visit and all time, from Leonardo da Vinci and
in learning more about Tuscany in Michelangelo, to Botticelli, Giotto and
general. Donatello. Depending on your interests in
Festivals and Seasonal Events in Tuscany history, art or sculpture - Tuscany has
There are many events all year round it all, spanning across time, styles and
throughout Tuscany, but many are periods. Below, a list of the top museums
concentrated during the summer. Many in Tuscany that you should not miss!
sagre, food festivals, start in early Florence
summer and continue on through the fall - Galleria degli Uffizi
as local specialties (truffles, wine, The Uffizi Gallery is one of the world's
olive oil) come into season. If you are top art museums - it houses some of the
coming to Tuscany during other periods of most important works of the Renaissance,
the year, don't worry as there is always including Leonardo da Vinci's
something to see or do then as well. For Annunciation, Giotto's Maestà ,
specific events, it is best to contact Botticelli's Birth of Venus and Allegory
the local tourism office of the locality of Spring and Michelangelo's only panel
you will be visiting. painting, the Holy Family. Lots of
- Luminara, Regatta and Battle of the sculptures too. Most of the rooms you go
Bridge - Pisa through have a few masterpieces... Plan
On the night of June 16, the Luminara to spend the entire day there to
begins the festivities to honor Saint thoroughly see it.
Ranieri, the patron saint of Pisa, the - Galleria dell'Accademia
following day. Over 70,000 candles light The Accademia houses Michelangelo's
up the palaces along the Arno river, with David, easily the most famous sculpture
a fireworks display afterwards. in the world. The line and wait can be
- To celebrate the patron saint of long, so be prepared. Once inside, you'll
Pisa, four boats representing the most also see Michelangelo's unfinished and
ancient districts of the city compete in powerful Prisoners, along with a few
the Regatta of Saint Ranieri along the works by Perugino, Giambologna, and
Arno river, heritage of the past glory of Botticelli.
Pisa as an ancient maritime republic. - Museo Nazionale del Bargello
Generally a week later, Pisa reenacts the Primarily a sculpture museum, you'll be
Battle of the Bridge, a medieval "push of treated to early Michelangelo marbles and
war" contest which takes place on the Giambologna bronzes and then on to a room
central bridge in Pisa. The contest is full of famous works by Donatello,
preceded by a huge procession in costume considered by many the greatest sculptor
through the city. since antiquity.
- Calcio Storico Fiorentino - Florence Siena
Fabulous fireworks along the Arno - Palazzo Comunale
conclude Florence's celebrations to St. Siena's medieval town hall houses the
John the Baptist, the city's patron Museo Civico, with masterpieces of the
saint, on June 24. First, there is a late Gothic Sienese school, and the Torre
parade in historical costume that starts del Mangia, which offers an extraordinary
at the Church of Santa Maria Novella and view of the Piazza del Campo and of
ends at the Church of Santa Croce, where Siena.
the Calcio Storico is then played in the Pisa
dirt-covered square in front of the - Museo dell'Opera del Duomo
church. The game is a combination of Near the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the
soccer, rugby, and big time wrestling, museum features many artworks from the
all played while wearing 16th century tower, cathedral and baptistry, including
costumes. The four teams represent the a magnificent ivory carving of the
four traditional neighborhoods of the Madonna e Crocifisso by Giovanni Pisano.
city: Santa Croce (blue), Santo Spirito Another highlight is the bust known as
(white), Santa Maria Novella (red), and the Madonna del Colloquio, also by
San Giovanni (green). The prize is a Pisano, taken from the exterior of the
whole Chianina calf. baptistry.
- Giostra del Saracino - Arezzo Volterra
Arezzo's Piazza Grande is the setting of - Museo Etrusco Guarnacci
the Giostra del Saracino, or Saracen Over 600 Etruscan cinerary urns fill
Tournament. Held twice a year, a night dozens of rooms here. The tiny sarcophagi
version on the third Saturday in June and play out in stony relief the Etruscans'
the second on the first Sunday in views on death, art, and life. The museum
September, this tournament has its also displays Roman mosaics and rare
origins in the early 16th century and in examples of Etruscan, Greek and Roman
its present form, commemorates Christian coins and jewelry.
efforts to hold back the tide of Islam in Tuscany Hotels
the 14th century. There is a lively and If you will be staying a few days in each
colorful procession preceding the event city you plan to visit, the most
in which eight costumed knights charge convenient choice will be to stay at a
towards a wooden representation of the hotel. You are usually in the center of
Saracen, aiming to hit the Saracen's the town, a few minutes away from most of
shield with lances. The target is mounted the city's monuments and museums so hotel
as to swivel around and can actually hit accommodation is practical. There are
back! Each pair of knights represents one hotels of all types to meet your needs
of Arezzo's four rival districts and and budget across Florence and Tuscany.
their supporters each occupy a side of If you prefer to a base and travel to
the piazza. The winner receives a golden each city and back on the same day, we
lance. recommend a hotel out of the cities ,
- Palio di Siena - Siena central in Tuscany were day trips to the
The Palio horse race is a colorful, major tourist destinations can be done in
bareback horse race round the dirt-packed a day and one can relax back at base.






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